Lot 1762
  • 1762

Impressive and Important Ruby and Diamond Ring, Mounted by Cartier

50,000,000 - 60,000,000 HKD
bidding is closed


  • ruby, platinum, diamond
Centring on an oval ruby weighing 29.62 carats, to a stylised mount set with brilliant-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 2.50 carats, mounted in platinum, signed MT. Cartier and numbered SU4844. Ring size: 5¼

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by Gübelin report numbered 13105228, dated 26 October 2013, stating that the 29.62 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese (Mogok) origin, with no indications of heating. Also accompanied by AGL report numbered CS 57161, dated 26 September 2013, stating that the 29.62 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating and clarity enhancement, and an AGL Jewelfolio and Letter stating that 'weighing an impressive nearly 30 carats, this ruby is in a weight class that is very exclusive for this source (Burma). Furthermore, this gem possesses a richly saturated, homogenous colour that is typical of fine quality rubies from this famous locale...This exceptional ruby is set in a ring from one of the world's most prestigious jewelry houses: Cartier. A gem-quality unheated Burmese ruby of 29.62 cts is extraordinary rare and distinguishes this gem as being uniquely significant.'
Also accompanied by a Cartier fitted box.


Cartier in Crimson Shade

Ruby – a gemstone considered to be the world’s most valuable for thousands of years – holds a distinct place in the history of high jewellery. One of the most prestigious jewellery houses, Cartier, marked by countless innovative and iconic designs, started incorporating this red gemstone in their intricate pieces in the early 20th century, mainly as calibré-cut rubies and beads. It was in the 1910s and 1920s, when Jacque Cartier made his first voyage to India and Maharaja of Patiala handed Cartier several thousand stones to reset, that rubies first take on a place of honour in the maison’s high jewellery, particularly in the Indian-influenced design and art deco pieces. Over the years, rubies mounted on exquisite Cartier jewelleries have grown in magnitudes and qualities, often assuming prominent positions in the maison’s finest designs. 

In The Six Voyages, published in 1676, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier wrote, “When a ruby exceeds six carats and is perfect, it is sold for whatever it is asked for.” Centuries have passed since then and rubies of gem-quality are still of great rarity, if not rarer than before. Lot 1762 is a truly exceptional ring graced by the pedigree of Cartier, as well as the fabled Mogok Valley mines in Burmese where the best rubies in the world are unearthed. The only similar ring to this is The Carmen Lúcia Burmese Ruby Ring currently exhibition at the Smithsonian National Natural History Museum, which weighs 23.10 carats. The museum states, “While sapphire, emerald and diamond gems weighing hundreds of carats exist, high-quality Burmese rubies larger than 20 carats are exceedingly rare.” The Cartier ring to be offered is uniquely significant for the Mogok ruby’s impressive weight of 29.62 carats, combined with a homogeneous and richly saturated colour, this piece belongs to an exclusive crimson realm of fabled origin and supreme artistry.