Suite of yellow diamond, onyx, emerald and diamond jewels, 'Sherkhan', Cartier

Comprising: a bangle designed as a tiger with an articulated head, pavé-set with brilliant-cut yellow diamonds, onyx, pear-shaped emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 165mm; a ring designed as a tiger's head similarly set, size 52; and a brooch designed as a tiger on a branch, suspending a detachable drop set with a brilliant-cut diamond of yellow tint and a briolette fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 5.05 carats, capped with circular-cut stones; each signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and maker's marks, cases signed Cartier. 

Cf.: Nadine Coleno, Amazing Cartier, Creations since 1937, Paris, 2008, pg. 58 for a reproduction of a similar brooch from the Collection 'Inde Mystérieuse', 2007. 

Cf.: The Art of Cartier, exh. cat., 24 October 2012 - 17 February 2013, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid, pgs. 323-324 for examples of 'Tiger' jewels.

Please note that the diamonds of yellow tint have not been tested for natural colour. Accompanied by a GIA report no 14863224 from 2006, stating that the diamond, measuring 7.56 x 6.65 x 11.47 mm, weights 5.05 carats and is of natural fancy vivid yellow colour, VS1 clarity. Bangle signed Cartier, maker's marks, numbered 99047B; ring signed Cartier, maker's marks, numbered H4S00720; brooch signed Cartier, maker's mark, numbered H5S00040; all stamped with French assay marks and 750 for 18 carat gold. Emeralds and onyx in good condition. For further details on the briolette diamond on the brooch, please refer to the GIA report. Remaining diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 20.00 - 25.00 carats, on average G-H colour and of yellowish tints and VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mounting. Signs of little wear to the metal, scratches consistent with use. In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 160 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Jeanne Toussaint, the enlightened director of Haute Joaillerie at Cartier between 1933 and 1970, affectionately called “la Panthère” by Louis Cartier, was responsible for the evolution of the panther motif, present in Cartier production since 1914, into the three dimensional creations loved and made fashionable by the Duchess of Windsor. Following the success of the first examples created for the Duchess, relying on the design skills of the brilliant Pierre Lemarchand, Toussaint oversaw the production of a series of beautiful and varied 'Great Cat' jewels for the international jet set. Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton are just a few of the women who fell under the spell of Cartier's tigers and panthers in the 1950s and 1960s. 'Great Cat' jewels are still en vogue at Cartier and contribute to the image of the brand worldwide. 

The name 'Sherkhan' (or Sherkan, Shere Khan) refers to The Jungle Book written by Rudyard Kipling in 1884. The word Shere (or shir) means "tiger" or "lion" in Persian, Urdu, and Punjabi, and Khan translates as "sovereign", "king" in a number of languages influenced by the Mongols, including Pashto. Shere Khan is Mowgli's enemy in The Jungle Book.