14 Karat Gold, Black Opal, Diamond and Enamel Necklace, Durand & Co., Newark, New Jersey

The pear-shaped black opal cabochon measuring approximately 19.5 by 10.0 by 6.0 mm, topped by an oval-shaped black opal cabochon measuring approximately 22.2 by 11.3 by 5.9 mm, highlighted by enamel in green and blue hues, suspended from a chain set at intervals with diamonds, set throughout with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.45 carats, gross weight approximately 11 dwts, length 15¾ inches, with maker's mark for Durand; circa 1900.

In good condition. The black oval cabochon opal, the play of color exhibited by broad blue flashes concentrated on the left and center of the stone. In good condition with an absence of crazing. The suspended pear-shaped cabochon black opal exhibits harlequin and flash patterns of blue and green play of color. It is noticeably crazed. The enamel is intact. The diamonds are approximately G-J color, VS-SI clarity. The top right portion of the mounting looks like it was repaired with lead solder at some point. The chain is in very good condition. The firm of Durand & Company is distinguished as having been one of the leading names in the jewelry industry during the mid-19th century, although the history of the Durand family records seven successive generations of manufacturing jewelers in the United States dating back to the 18th century. Samuel Durand of Derby, Connecticut was the first to become involved in jewelry manufacturing, leaving for New York in 1740, then to Newark in 1750. He was succeeded by his son John Durand, who received great praise from George Washington during the Revolutionary War for his ability to repair field glasses. John Durand's son, Henry, in addition to manufacturing jewelry, also made silverware and crystals for watches. Henry's son Madison Durand, was actually the founder of the firm Durand & Co, in 1938. As was often the case with manufacturing jewelers, Durand & Co. often made jewelry for other firms. At some point during the late 1870's or early 1880's Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany & Co., established a partnership with Durand & Co. that lasted until 1886. Examples of jewels by Durand & Co. are in the permanent collection of the Newark Museum, Newark, New Jersey. Probably the most noted of the family was Asher Brown Durand (1796-1886), an engraver of plates used in the printing of pictures, many of which are in the National Portrait Gallery, the most famous being that of Trumbull's "The Signing of the Declaration of Independence". In 1835, Durand ceased his career in engraving and focused on landscape painting. Together with Thomas Cole, Asher Durand is considered a founder of the Hudson River School of Painting. After Cole's death in 1848, he became recognized as the leader of American landscape painting.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Please request the condition report for this lot for information on the Newark jeweler Durand.