Lot 131
  • 131

An Ottoman jade and jewel-set belt buckle, Turkey, 17th century

Estimate
80,000 - 120,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • jade, jewel-set, brass
slightly curved, with a central aperture and hidden sliding hinge, four thin stays on underside to fasten belt, the front worked in repoussé with foliate scrolls, set with encrusted jade plaques inlaid with gold and colourful stones, bordered by further stones set into shallow bud-shaped settings

Condition

In generally good condition, some oxidisation and discoloration to metal consistent with age and use, some stones possibly later replacements, some of hammered gold decoration on gold plaques missing, parts of metal surface slightly bent, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This magnificent belt buckle belongs to a very small group of Ottoman buckles decorated in such an extravagant manner which are known to exist. One is in the Topkapi Saray Collection and another in the Benaki Museum (Ballian 1992, p.96-97, no.53). Another similar example, dated to the sixteenth century, now in the Museum für Kunsthandwerk, Frankfurt, inv. no. 14320, displays a similar pattern of arrangement, with inset jade plaques and colourful gemstones on a repoussé ground.

The colourful stones bordering each plaque of the buckle were each set into bud-shaped clasps using a technique known as mihlama (R. Hasson, Later Islamic Jewellery, L.A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art, Jerusalem 1987, p.11, no. 3). The Ottoman tradition of setting jade and gemstones into metal objects intended for everyday use to embellish them can be seen on a number of different objects including small boxes, book covers, weapons (see following lot).