Lot 306
  • 306

A gem-set and enamelled gold necklace, Jaipur, 19th century

Estimate
40,000 - 60,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • gold with enamel and gems and miniature pearls
designed with seven rows of miniature pearls interspersed with colourful gem-set and enamelled gold square beads, leading to a central openwork pendant designed with two confronted peacocks amidst a foliate ground set with diamonds, emeralds and rubies, the design repeated on the reverse in polychrome enamel, with three hanging emeralds

Condition

In overall good condition, one of miniature pearl strands near the top section of the necklace are detached and would need minor restoration – the string that holds the pearls is generally fragile, one of strands has been recently restored near the pendant, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This form of necklace, with strands of pearls interupted by square beads and terminating in a beautiful gem-set pendant was very popular in nineteenth century India and similar examples feature in George Birdwood's The Industrial Arts of India (1880) and S.S. Jacob and T.H. Hendley's Jeypore Enamels (1886) (P.M. Carvalho, Gems and Jewels of Mughal India: The Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic Art, vol. XVIII, 2010, pp.121-3, no.48).

A miniature painting in the Victoria and Albert Museum (inv. no. IS.6-1955), attributed to Jaipur, circa 1800, portrays a lady combing her hair and wearing a similar necklace attesting to the necklace's wearability and popularity as well as confirming Jaipur as a most probable place of manufacture.