A diamond, ruby and emerald-set gold Manga Malai necklace, Tamil Nadu, 19th century

gold set with rubies, diamonds and emeralds, composed of linked mango-shaped elements supporting a central openwork plaque formed of scrolling foliate tendrils around a central floral rosette, fringed with gold beads, clasp in the form of two addorsed peacocks

In good overall condition, two of the gold hanging pendant balls missing, one detached, small gemstone missing near top of pendant, a green minor gemstone missing, some diamonds possibly replaced at a slightly later date, the clasp also possibly later addition, otherwise, good condition, bright, colourful stones, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This manga 'mango' malai 'garland' is unique to South India and was traditionally worn for special occasions such as weddings and by Bharatha Natyam dancers during performances. The mango is a popular fruit in India where it is regarded as a symbol of love and fertility. The necklace demonstrates the South Indian preference for cabochon rubies. The gems are set using the kundala-velai technique which relates to the north Indian kundan tradition of using a lac-filled sheet of gold to secure the gem. The form of this necklace has its origins in the Chola period and earlier, with bronze and stone sculptures displaying strands of gem-encrusted necklaces of similar design. This necklace compares closely to an example in the David Collection, Copenhagen (Untracht 1997, p.234, no.494). Like the necklace in the David Collection the current lot is composed of series of mango-shaped units held in place by the use of two thattaiyana ponnulla saradu (flat knitted gold wire chains) that pass through loops at the back. Other examples are found in the Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, the Khalili Collection, London (Moscow 2014, nos.18 & 19) and the Hapsburg Collection, Geneva, (Sotheby's 1987, no.41).