Gold, Silver, Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, Buccellati

The highly flexible necklace set with round and cushion-cut sapphires weighing approximately 17.50 carats, the bib centered by an old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 1.20 carats, further set with numerous round, rose, single and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 11.00 carats, length 15¾ inches, signed Buccellati; bib detachable; early 1950s.

In very good condition with negligeable signs of wear. The sapphires are a medium to medium deep blue to slightly violetish blue, predominantly eye-clean to lightly included, though several stones are more heavily included. Some of the sapphires exhibit light abrading to the facet junctions. The diamonds are approximately H-J color, VS-SI clarity. Extremely well-made and highly flexible with a lace-like feel. The bib detaches easily via three clasps on the reverse.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

For nearly a century, the name Buccellati has been synonymous with impeccably-made fine jewelry.  Each piece displays the house’s distinctive style, a telltale texturing to the metal applied by the lightest of hands.  Though Buccellati continues this tradition of superb artistry today, perhaps its most renowned period of production transpired in the years following World War II.  Mario Buccellati, assisted by four of his sons, was in the prime of his career, creating jewels through close collaboration with Italy’s cultural and business élite.  It was through such a relationship that the following collection, one of the finest assemblages of vintage Buccellati to appear at auction in recent years, came to be.  

By the end of the 1940s, a number of prominent families had arisen to chart their country’s path out of the devastation wrought by the previous decade.  Boasting several heads of ministries within the post-war government, the family of the present consignor helped rebuild the capital through civil service.  As founders of one of the foremost architectural enterprises in Rome, they impacted the city on an indelible level, overseeing significant improvements to the capital’s infrastructure.  They also represented Italy internationally, negotiating trade agreements on behalf of the Ministry of Industry. 

It was after one such trip abroad to Canada that the consignor’s father suggested that the maple leaf be incorporated into Buccellati’s design vocabulary; the emerald brooch and bracelet offered here (lots 98 and 100) were among the first jewels to employ the now emblematic motif.  It was in this spirit of collaboration that the works on the following pages were conceived, the client selecting the stones that he and Mario Buccellati, working in partnership, would transform into bespoke jewels. The highlight of the collection is perhaps the exquisite sapphire and diamond necklace (lot 96).  Combining the lace-like detailing so characteristic of Buccellati with masterful construction, it drapes with remarkable suppleness—more silk than metal.  The piece may be worn as a simple collar or, through a series of concealed closures, may assume a more formal appearance by accepting a highly flexible chevron-shaped bib.  Also of particular importance is the impressive light yellow round-cut diamond ring (lot 95).  Diamonds larger than one carat are rare in Buccellati’s production, the focus resting mainly on the goldwork, not the gemstones.  At over 5.00 carats, the diamond sits on the finger like the centerpiece to a dazzling cupola.  It is a stately jewel that, through the classic styling of Buccellati, remains effortlessly wearable. 

The spirit of this collection is aptly described by Martina Corgnati in her book Mario Buccellati: Prince of Goldsmiths: “Mario was both an extremely personal and perfect interpreter of others’ aspirations; he knew how to understand and satisfy the desires and taste of his friend[s].”