Gem set and diamond brooch/ pendant, Henrie-Auguste Solié, circa 1900

The pendant designed as a woman caught in a spider's web set with polished opals, circular-cut and rose diamonds, signed Solié, numbered, French assay mark, brooch fitting detachable; accompanied by a fancy link necklace accented with plique-à-jour enamel, cabochon sapphires and rubies and polished opal beads, length approximately 700mm, separates into two shorter necklaces, each length approximately 360mm, French assay marks.

CF: Alastair Duncan, Art Nouveau Designers at The Paris Salons 1895-1914, Jewellery  II: The Designers L-Z, pages 220-221, for examples of jewellery by Henrie-Auguste Solie.

Rubies of Burmese origin cannot be imported into the US. This piece may contain rubies of Burmese origin and therefore may not be able to be imported into the US. Certification of non-Burmese origin will be required before import of rubies into the US. Please see our Important Notices and contact the jewelery department for further information. Signed Solie. Numbered 3632. Stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold. Opal with strong blue, green and red play-of-colour, with some small chips to surface. Sapphires and rubies with characteristic inclusions visible under magnification, some small pits and abrasions to surface. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 0.50 - 1.00 carats, stones bright and lively. Some abrasions and tarnish to metal consistent with age and wear. Signs of solder marks. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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One of the leading jewellers to adopt the Art Nouveau genre, Henri-Auguste Solié operated from a workshop based on 75 Rue de Faubourg-Saint-Honoré in Paris, embracing the organic themes of the movement and merging them with the female form. He exhibited at the Paris International Exhibition of 1900 where he displayed a  buckle inspired by the dance of Loie Fuller with draped ribbons illustrating the fluidity of movement.