A Seed Pearl and Gem-Set Headdress (Hiyout), Morocco, 19th Century

of long oval shape, the overall surface embroidered with small pearls interspersed with colourful gemstones and golden plaques, on a thick textile ground with two elongated bands used for attaching, a large golden bead and hook hanging from the centre

In good condition, some wear to cloth backing, particularly with tears to reverse, some loose metal threads, most of the stones are examples of emerald, amethyst, tourmaline, citrine, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This magnificent headdress, or hiyout, is richly decorated with embroidered seed pearls incorporating colourful stones in its design. This ornamental style is associated with the centres of Tetuan, Tangier, or Rabat (Mann 2001, p.150). Made by Jewish craftsmen for both Jewish and Muslim brides, such headdresses were worn not only as adornments, but also served a religious purpose, notably to cover the woman’s hair, associated with ‘nakedness’ in the Babylonian Talmud Berakhot, 24a, and concealed as a sign of modesty in accordance with the Qur’an (ibid., p.150). The headdresses made for Jewish brides tend to also incorporate two braided silk threads on either side and are known as ‘soulaef’ (ibid., p.150, no.47). A similar headdress, dated to the nineteenth century, is illustrated in Mann 2001, pp.150-151, no.49.

The accompanying photograph (fig.1), taken by Jean Besancenot between 1930-1935, features a young Jewish bride from Salé wearing her costume, "Keswa el-Kbira", which includes a similar headdress and necklaces similar to lots 225 and 227.

Image credits: Jean Besancenot, 1930-1935, Collection Dahan-Hirsch, Brussels.