Lot 166
  • 166

An attractive diamond wheat sheaf tiara, Second half of 19th Century

Estimate
60,000 - 80,000 GBP
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Description

  • diamond, silver, gold
Designed as two wheat sheaf's each tied together with a ribbon bow, set throughout with cushion-, pear-shaped, circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, inner circumference approximately 330mm, few small diamonds deficient, each wheat sheaf detachable from frame and can be worn as brooches, bows detachable with additional brooch fittings, accompanied by later fitted case.

Literature

Cf: Geoffrey Munn, Tiaras, a History of Splendour, Italy, 2001, pages 174-175 and 271 for similar examples of late 19th century wheat sheaf tiaras.
Cf: Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, ‘French Jewellery of the Nineteenth Century’, London 2001, pages 150 and 162.
Cf: Diana Scarisbrick, ‘Jewellery from Renaissance to Art Déco 1540-1940’, Japan 2003, page 115,
Cf: Ed. Hugh Tait, ‘The Art of the Jeweller, a Catalogue of the Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum’, London 1984, page 22, for examples of wheat sheaf tiaras and brooches.

Condition

Jewels mounted in silver and gold with signs of soldering and minor repairs to reverse, frame probably base metal and slightly bent. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 55.00-60.00 carats, mixed colours and clarities, stones bright and lively, a few stones with yellow tints, some chips and abrasions, few small diamonds deficient. Each wheatsheaf detachable from tiara frame and can be worn as brooch. Ears detachable from stems marked with Roman number indicating their position in the sheaf. Wheat ear numbered I with sign of repair to fitting. Each bow detachable and can be worn as brooch when paired with additional brooch fittings. Scratches and tarnish consistent with age and wear. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Although the 19th century was a period of great change through industrialisation jewellery designers often looked to the past for inspiration.  This tiara in the neo-classical taste, is composed of a wreath of ears of wheat and is emblematic of prosperity, abundance and fruitfulness; it would be highly appropriate if such a tiara were worn at a wedding.  In ancient Greece, tiaras of laurel leaves, oak or naturalistic branches would crown the victorious or be worn by women to display their prominent status in society.  Emperor Napoleon I was often depicted in portraiture in his coronation robes and wearing a golden laurel wreath to display his status and grandeur.

Cf: Queen Victoria Receiving the Sacrament at her Coronation, 28th June 1838, Charles Robert Leslie(1794-1859), where we see the Queen’s train bearers are depicted wearing hair decorations of wheat-sheaf design.