A Platinum and Diamond 'Rosebud' Brooch, Verdura, France, 1958

Set with 206 round diamonds and 29 baguette diamonds weighing approximately 22.00 carats, partially signed Verdura, Made in France; with box.  

In good condition. The diamonds are approximately F-G color, predominantly VVS-VS clarity. The brooch is very well made, with a very high level of three dimensionality. The Verdura signature is partially rubbed. Some evidence of repair to the reverse, on one of the petals and on the stem. Dimensions: 2 inches by 3 1/2 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

In 1934, after years of working as a textile and jewelry designer for Coco Chanel in Paris, Fulco di Verdura took the advice of Diana Vreeland, the fashion journalist and later Vogue editor, and immigrated to the United States to work under the tutelage of jewelry designer Paul Flato. As Vreeland suspected, this would become an auspicious partnership. Flato's jewelry was sculptural and whimsical, which was perfectly aligned with Verdura's own design aesthetic. While working for Flato, Verdura made a name for himself by creating jewels that were striking and contemporary yet playful. His designs garnered such attention that he was able to open his own Fifth Avenue salon in 1939 with the financial backing of Cole Porter and Vincent Astor.

Once Verdura opened his own salon, he created jewelry for many members of New York's social elite. Given Vincent Astor's role as one of Fulco di Verdura's patrons, it comes as no surprise that Mrs. Astor's collection is filled with jeweled delights from the designer. The naturalism of the 'rosebud' brooch and 'leaf and flower' bracelet recall his days with Flato, while the streamlined mix-and-match 'ribbon' bracelets show his playful side. In 1940 Vogue proclaimed that "any jewel that Verdura touches becomes a more interesting jewel;" the jewelry in Mrs. Astor's collection exemplifies this statement as the beauty of each piece is enhanced by its uniqueness.

Please note the illustration is larger than life-size.