18 Karat Gold, Lacque Burgauté, Enamel, Mother-of-Pearl, Jade and Diamond Vanity Case, Cartier, France

The front and reverse set with two rectangular lacque burgauté panels depicting Chinoiserie garden scenes illustrating a scholar and his apprentice, decorated with a carved jade tablet and small rose-cut diamonds, bordered by red enamel, the edges heightened in black enamel applied in a geometric motif, the interior fitted with a mirror and two compartments, measuring approximately 3 by 2 by ½ inches, signed Cartier Paris Londres New York, numbered 8453, with French assay and partial workshop marks; circa 1925.

In fair condition, with some evident enamel and mother-of-pearl loss to both sides, with some chipping to the corners of the lacquer tablets. The colors in the scene are more muted than they appear in the printed catalogue. The diamonds are near colorless and decorative in quality. Some staining evident on one of the edges of the mirror. Gross weight approximately 101 dwts. Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits are required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Often made during the nineteenth century in China or Japan, the lacque burgauté plaques seen here were often imported by Cartier from the Far East. To achieve the smooth and glossy finish of the tablets, which were typically set with tinted and engraved mother-of-pearl inlays, multiple layers of lacquer and various polishing techniques were utilized. The geometric enamelwork and carved jade decorations on the present vanity case further exemplify the influence of Eastern motifs on Art Deco designs.

For further information and vanity cases of similar design please see:

Cartier: Innovation Through the 20th Century, published by Flammarion, page 134.

Cartier: Jewelers Extrordinairy, Hans Nadelhoffer, plates 38-39.

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits are required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.