150
150
18 Karat Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch, Joë Descomps, Leon Gariod
Estimate
12,00018,000
LOT SOLD. 15,000 USD
JUMP TO LOT
150
18 Karat Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch, Joë Descomps, Leon Gariod
Estimate
12,00018,000
LOT SOLD. 15,000 USD
JUMP TO LOT

Details & Cataloguing

Magnificent Jewels

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New York

18 Karat Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch, Joë Descomps, Leon Gariod
Designed as a bathing female figure highlighted with blue and green plique-à-jour enamel, gross weight approximately 11 dwts, with French assay mark and maker's mark for Leon Gariod, numbered 3500; circa 1900.
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Literature

Illustrated in The Paris Salons: 1895-1914. Jewellery. Volume I. The Designers A-K by Alistair Duncan, page 187. This source also notes that the brooch was exhibited in the Exposition des Beaux-Arts in 1900.

Illustrated in Masterpieces of French Jewelry by Judith Price, page 21.

Catalogue Note

Emanuel-Jules Joë Descomps (1872-1948) was a leading Parisian jeweler, sculptor and designer who developed a strong connection to the Art Nouveau style. Although little is known about him, Descomps specialized in goldwork at the renowned firm of Falguières and worked closely with Paris jeweler Léon Gariod to fashion pieces that were emblematic of the period. Together they created brooches, pendants and other combinations featuring finely chiseled plique-à-jour enamelwork, emeralds, pearls, and other decorative and three-dimensional motifs. Two of the brooches from their collection are currently displayed in the Hessische Landesmuseum, Darmstadt and the British Museum in London. The jewelry designed by Descomps for Gariod contains the company stamp of Leon Gariod –a monogramed “LG” separated by a horn-like symbol in a vertical lozenge. This brooch represents a collaborative moment in the life of these two jewelers, a relationship that has been valued and recorded as an artistic intersection point.

Magnificent Jewels

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New York