Lot 219
  • 219

Silver, Gold and Diamond Fringe Necklace, Mid 19th Century

Estimate
100,000 - 150,000 USD
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Description

  • silver, gold, diamond
Designed as a series of tapering fringes graduating in size from the center, set with numerous old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds, spaced by vertical rows of smaller collet-set diamonds, all supported by a row of diamonds set in box links, the total diamond weight approximately 60.00 carats, length 15 inches, with findings for wear as a tiara but missing frame.

Provenance

Sotheby's New York, October 25, 1995, Magnificent Jewelry from a Private Collection, lot 79.

Condition

In very good condition, with only minimal signs of wear and some tarnish commensurate with age. The diamonds are approximately E-H color, VS-SI clarity. The necklace is flexible and lays very nicely when worn.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

This ‘sun ray’ necklace is almost identical in design to a diamond fringe tiara/necklace made in 1830 from stones that had belonged to King George III.  Queen Victoria first wore the design as a tiara on an official visit to the Opera. The piece was later inherited by Queen Mary in 1910, who then passed it onto her daughter-in-law Queen Elizabeth, later the Queen Mother, who loaned the tiara as the ‘something borrowed’ on the wedding days of her daughter, now Queen Elizabeth II, and her granddaughter, Princess Anne. See The Queen's Jewels by Leslie Field, pp.41-43.

 The design of this piece gains its inspiration from kokoshniks, fan-shaped head ornaments that were originally part of a Russian folk costume. Models in precious stones were worn by Russian aristocracy from the time of Catherine the Great and had become popular in Western Europe by the 19th Century. For additional information please see Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, by Hans Nadelhoffer, p.70.