Silver-Topped-Gold, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond 'Peacock Feather' Brooch, Circa 1860

Designed as a fanciful peacock feather, the eye centered by a fancy-cut sapphire, bordered by 15 calibré-cut emeralds, the intertwined and curled plumes set with numerous old mine, old European and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 17.50 carats, length 5¾ inches, with French import marks.

Parke-Bernet Galleries, Inc., New York, October 12, 1965, Precious Stone Jewels from the Unique Collection of the Late Helena Rubinstein, lot 83.

In good condition overall, especially considering the piece's age. Some solder repair and discoloration to the gold on the reverse of the piece. Jointed and slightly articulated just below the feather head. Three small rose-cut diamonds are missing near the joint, another missing to the right of the joint (facing) on one of the barbs which is hidden underneath another crossed-over barb. The sapphire is a medium deep blue color and is of good clarity, the emeralds are a medium green color and are slightly included; a few stones are lightly abraded or chipped. Diamonds are approximately I-L color, many with a brown tint, SI-I clarity. A few more modern-cut diamond replacements sprinkled throughout, some with glue present. With owl and swan French import marks for silver and gold from countries without a commercial treaty. Those marks are found near the base of the pin stem hinge.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Peacock feathers have always fascinated us. Besides their decorative beauty and the immediate appeal of their vibrant colors, they are deeply symbolic, the meaning changing according to the specific culture in which they appear.  To the ancient Greeks, the peacock was the favorite of the goddess Hera who is said to have placed “one hundred eyes” in its tail feathers to render herself all-seeing and wise. In Hindu mythology, peacocks were associated with the god Lakshmi, symbolizing kindness and good fortune. In more modern times, peacocks have come to symbolize pride and, by extension, glory and nobility. It is not surprising that these exotic birds with their resplendent plumage are favorites in royal gardens and parks throughout the world.

In the last quarter of the 19th century, fascination for the unusual and exotic resulted in a renewed interest in the peacock image, both as a bird with a fan of tail feathers or as a single plume. Jewelry was not exempt from this trend. Peacock feathers set completely in diamonds soon gave way to larger and more realistically modeled plumes, such as the one offered here, set with emerald and sapphire “eyes” that closely imitated the real thing. The highly influential Parisian jeweler Massin is known to have produced several of these magnificent plumes made possible by new jewelry-making techniques combined with a keen observation of nature.

The peacock feather is a favorite motif of Mrs. Wrightsman. Her residence in St. James’s Place in London included a Louis XV giltwood chair upholstered in a striking peacock-patterned fabric, a pair of peacock feather fans, and a dramatic bouquet of approximately 500 peacock plumes. See the catalogue Property from the Collection of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman: The London Residence, Sotheby’s, New York, April 28, 2010, lots 132, 34 and 35.