Cartier/European Watch & Clock Co., Inc.

• rectangular gilt lever 8-day movement, 10 jewels • the dial with rectangular gold chapter ring overlaid with turquoise enamel heightened by Roman numerals, set with white opaque enamel, the numerals spaced by gold florets, diamond-set hands with arrow-form terminals • the dial protected by a projecting rectangular glazed panel, the corners decorated with black and turquoise enameled attachments • the chapter ring applied to a quadrangular molded onyx case, the sides fixed with turquoise and black enameled gold medallions, hung with jade circular handles, heightened with turquoise and black enamel, the medallions applied to the case • the case surmounted by a well-carved rock crystal figure of a Billiken with diamond-set eyes • mounted on a gold socle, the base and movement each fitted with a plaque inscribed 'No. 747, European Watch and Clock Co, Inc, 10 jewels' • wound at the back by means of a key • base and movement signed European Watch & Clock Clock Co. Inc., base, movement, support and underside of chapter ring hand-stamped with Cartier numbers 1505, the movement hand-stamped with Cartier numbers 95076

Sotheby's, New York, Important Watches, October 19th, 2007, lot 8

Please note that the Billiken is also accompanied by facsimiles of correspondence between a former owner and Cartier. The letters consist of a request for information for clock number 747 from the previous owner dated August 3rd, 1986, and a reply from Cartier dated September 25th, 1986, confirming that the piece is recorded in their archives from 1922. There is some chipping to the left side of the ear on the Billiken, as well as a nearly imperceptible chip to the bottom of the front of his left foot. Otherwise, he is in generally good order and very charming to behold. There is some enamel loss to the dark blue on the right handle, and the jade portion of the left handle appears to have been repaired in a few places. There is some slight loss to the enamel numerals. Accompanied by an associated key that was custom-made for this piece. The movement is running at the time of cataloguing, though it may require service in the future.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping.

Important Notice regarding importation into the United States of Rolex watches
Sotheby's cannot arrange for the delivery of Rolex watches to the United States because U.S. laws restricts the import of Rolex watches. The buyer or a designated agent may collect the property in the country of sale."

The Billiken figure is known on at least one other Cartier timepiece. For an image of this well-known and important piece, a portico clock, see the cover of The Cartier Collection: Timepieces, as well as page 214 of the same text, where it heads the chapter entitled 'From China and Japan.' For more illustrations of that piece, see the Exhibition Catalogue from Cartier and America, San Francisco and New York, 2009, p.151, which identifies the piece as belonging to the Cartier collection, the Exhibition Catalogue of the Musée du Petit Palais, October 20, 1989-January 28, 1990, pl. 53, p. 84; Barracca, J., Negretti, G., and Nencini, F., Le Temps de Cartier, p. 21; and Rudoe, J., Cartier: 1900-1939, pl. 206, pp.123-4. For an example of another Billiken objet created by Cartier, see Nadelhoffer, H., Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, pl. 73.

The Billiken is a symbol of luck created in 1908 by Florence Pretz, an art teacher from Missouri. His name came from U.S. President William Howard Taft's nickname, Billy, following just a few years after Theodore Roosevelt's name was used to popularize the teddy bear.  

The Billiken's whimsical, elfin look was an instant success, and his likeness was chosen for dolls and a diverse variety of other objects, including salt and pepper shakers, belt buckles, automobile hood ornaments, and the mascot for St. Louis University's sports teams.

After a few years of popularity in America, the Billiken craze dulled and the mass production of Billiken-themed items slowed. Too charming to disappear completely, though, the Billiken re-surfaced as far away as Japan, where his status was elevated to that of 'The God of Things as they Ought to Be.' The Japanese were so enamored with the Billiken that his effigy was enshrined in an Osaka amusement park in 1912. Since 1980, the Billiken has enjoyed a lofty view from the fifth floor of the city's revived Tsutenkaku Tower.

Folklore has it that the luck the Billiken offers falls into three categories: good, better, and best. Good luck results from purchasing a Billiken; better luck from having given a Billiken as a gift; the best luck of all is for one to own a Billiken and have it stolen. Luck is also bestowed upon those who rub the soles of its feet.

It is interesting to note that in Alaska, where the Billiken to this day enjoys great popularity as the subject for carved items, the artisans find this one of the most challenging figures to create. If executed less than perfectly, his unusual and difficult-to-craft features are rendered frightening rather than charming. With that in mind, one can more fully appreciate the mastery required to carve the form of the Billiken out of rock crystal, as in the present lot.