158

PROPERTY FROM DESCENDENTS OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER

Patek Philippe
RETAILED BY TIFFANY & CO: AN EXCEPTIONAL AND MOST PROBABLY UNIQUE AND SPECIALLY ORDERED 18K YELLOW GOLD MINUTE-REPEATER WRISTWATCH REF 2524/1 MVT 861495 CASE 2604979 MOVEMENT MADE IN 1954 AND CASED IN 1961
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158

PROPERTY FROM DESCENDENTS OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER

Patek Philippe
RETAILED BY TIFFANY & CO: AN EXCEPTIONAL AND MOST PROBABLY UNIQUE AND SPECIALLY ORDERED 18K YELLOW GOLD MINUTE-REPEATER WRISTWATCH REF 2524/1 MVT 861495 CASE 2604979 MOVEMENT MADE IN 1954 AND CASED IN 1961
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Details & Cataloguing

Important Watches

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Geneva

Patek Philippe
RETAILED BY TIFFANY & CO: AN EXCEPTIONAL AND MOST PROBABLY UNIQUE AND SPECIALLY ORDERED 18K YELLOW GOLD MINUTE-REPEATER WRISTWATCH REF 2524/1 MVT 861495 CASE 2604979 MOVEMENT MADE IN 1954 AND CASED IN 1961
• cal 12''' manual winding nickel lever movement stamped with "HOX", 29 jewels, repeating on two hammer gongs • silvered dial, black painted applied gold baton indexes and dauphine hands, outer pearled minute divisions, engraved enamel signature • band fitted with slide to activate the minute repeater, round polished and brushed case, snap on case back • case and movement signed, dial signed by maker and retailer
diameter 34 mm thickness 19.5 mm
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Catalogue Note

This example of 2524/1 minute repeater is the first of the reference known retailed and personalized by Tiffany & Co and the first of the reference fitted with an oversized repeater slide. Ordered by a prominent New York businessman in the 1960’s, via Tiffany & Co., the watch was apparently used as a secondary Patek Philippe minute repeater while his primary wristwatch, a unique Ref. 2419 Patek Philippe minute repeating wristwatch with oversized slide and black markers retailed by Cartier New York, was being serviced in Geneva. This model follows many key aspects of the Ref. 2419 such as black painted markers and an over-sized repeater slide, as would have been required by a discerning wealthy gentleman in his advanced years; it is interesting to note that the two watches were ordered by prominent, probably rivalling, New York jewellers.
Reference 2524-1 was launched in 1955 and was produced until the late 1960’s. It was originally manufactured with subsidiary seconds but some supplied with smaller hunter case calibres were produced with simple time only display. According to our research no more than 50 watches were made through these 13 years of time. Today, it is the 5th reference 2524-1 made without subsidiary seconds known to the market out of 12-15 pieces and the first and only known with the above mentioned unique characteristics.

12’’’ movements were usually especially made for this reference or used from pendant watches, re-cased or never cased before. It is notable that at the time small calibres such as the present one were highly expensive to realize and could cost up to almost twice the price of a 17’’’ calibre. Three part cases were made by the best case maker of the time: Emile Vichet (Geneva key 9) and dials were made by the well renowned Stern Frères, usually silvered opalin on gold. The movement of this watch is stamped HOX to the balance bridge indicating that it was imported into the USA by the Henry Stern Watch Agency in New York.

Examples of Patek Philippe watches with black-painted gold markers on gold dial can be found during the same era, however after a closer look it is our opinion that the markers on this watch were originally painted by the Stern Freres manufactory to provide a more visible dial, he also requested to enlarge the slide to simplify the activation of the minute-repeating function.

According to the best of our knowledge this is the first example of a Ref.2524 known to the market with a dial bearing “Tiffany & Co”. The combination of rarity, pristine overall condition and provenance render the present lot one of truly rare finds for most sophisticated collectors of exceptional highly complicated vintage wristwatches.

Minute repeater watches are illustrated in “Patek Philippe Wristwatches” by M. Huber et A. Banbery 1998, pp. 317-379 and minute repeating calibers by Patek Philippe are illustrated in the same book pp. 314-32.

 

HOX

In an effort to identify watches made for the American market during the 1940s and 1950s, the marks PXP and HOX were stamped on Patek Philippe movements. The marks identify the country in which the watches were to be sold and the information was shared with the customs officials in the country of ultimate delivery. Many Swiss watch brands had their own import mark: Vacheron Constantin used VXN, Audemars Piguet used AYP and Rolex used ROW.

Important Watches

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Geneva