Lot 256
  • 256

18 Karat Gold, Colored Stone, Diamond and Enamel Pendant-Brooch, Georges Fouquet, Circa 1910

Estimate
60,000 - 80,000 USD
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Description

  • Georges Fouquet
  • 18 karat gold, diamond, enamel, turquoise, topaz, opal, brooch
Set in the center with an egg-shaped cabochon turquoise, framed by fan-shaped lotuses applied with turquoise-colored, green, black and white enamel, accented by rectangular-shaped and fancy-shaped topazes, and white opal segments, supporting a pear-shaped white opal pendant, the top framed by small rose-cut diamonds, signed G. Fouquet, numbered 2349.  With rose-colored leather, silk and velvet box signed G. Fouquet, 6. Rue Royale, Paris.

Condition

Most all the enamel is in very good condition, but note a small chip along the top right edge of the center curved section of black enamel. There is extremely faint crazing to the opal drop, not readily eye visible. It cannot be determined whether the lower section of the center spike-shaped opals is original or later added, however there is an eye-visible difference in the play of color. The topazes are all pale in tone, mostly eye-clean, but a few with colorless inclusions. The diamonds are decorative (near colorless), all rose-cuts. The mounting signed G. FOUQUET 2349 along lower right edge, with French gold assay mark on pinstem (eagle head). The mounting fitted with small pendant loops for attaching a chain, and the pin mechanism is removable.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

For an example of Georges Fouquet's work in the Egyptian revival style see Les Fouquet: Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960, by Marie-Noël de Gary, p. 88, Bague Sarabée and Bague Mouche, and p. 89, Fleur de Lotus. 

Egypt's influence on the West goes back as far as ancient Roman times. Although this influence never disappeared completely, it rose to a peak after certain historical events such as Napoleon's campaign in Egypt at the end of the 18th century and the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. Events such as these allowed for a deeper, often first hand knowledge of Egyptian culture and mythology and  a wider availability of design sources both direct and indirect.

Art Nouveau artists were not immune to the lure of ancient Egypt as the two jewels by Georges Fouquet offered here can attest. Lotus blossoms and papyrus are more than mere embellishments, their curved forms are integral parts of the design. The predominantly turquoise and green color palette echoes the hues often found in Egyptian faience, scarabs and beads. The overall symmetry of the brooch and comb (lot 256-257) anticipate the Art Deco movement that was eventually to overtake the Art Nouveau style.