AN EXTREMELY RARE AND FINE GOLD THREAD 'EIGHT EMBLEMS' CEREMONIAL SURCOAT, MA GUA QING DYNASTY, 18TH CENTURY

the waist-length garment opening in front with an overlap closing to the right, the rich gold-foiled satin ground meticulously worked and expertly embroidered in high relief gold-wrapped thread on the front and back with the 'Eight Auspicious Symbols of Buddhism' (bajixiang) namely the Wheel of Law (fa lun) flanked by the Standard of Victory (san) and the Endless Knot (panchang), under the Twin fish (yu) set above the left sleeve and the Conch (luo) set above the right, the reverse centred with the Lotus (hehua), below the Vase (guan) and the Parasol (gai), all springing above foliate lotus bases borne on elaborate strapworks, some of the emblems picked out with silver wires, occasionally stained in green, and red silk threads, the interior with white silk lining from neck to hem

There is a scorched burn hole on the left of the jacket below the left sleeve (approx. 3 cm. diameter, showing on the illustration in the catalogue), there are some expected folds marks at the junction between the sleeves and the jacket, as well as horizontally in front, with associated wear. The colouring on some emblems produced using green stained wires and red threads have somewhat faded in places. The silk lining inside is somewhat faded to beige with a few tears. However the overall condition is quite good.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This ma gua is notable for its bold design of the bajixiang which has been sumptuously embroidered onto the golden satin in fine gold-wrapped thread. The luminescence and textural qualities of the tightly wrapped thread heightens its luxurious quality. As jackets of this type formed the outer layer of the Manchu wardrobe and would need to withstand the season and wear of activity, the delicacy and ornate Buddhist decoration of this piece suggests it may have been created for ceremonial use in Buddhist rituals. The technique of creating textiles with wrapped thread carefully held into place is known from as early as the Tang dynasty. Over 700 textiles were discovered in the crypt of the Famen temple pagoda, Fufeng, Shaanxi province (sealed in AD 874), including a miniature monk’s robe of kasaya-type decorated with floral motifs laid down in gold-wrapped thread, illustrated in Shelagh Vainker, Chinese Silk. A Cultural History, London, 2004, pl. 68.

Clothing decorated with the bajixiang are rare, although a yellow silk robe of the Huangtaiji period (r. 1626-43), from the Qing Court collection and still in Beijing, is illustrated in The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum. Costumes and Accessories of the Qing Court, Hong Kong, 2005, pl. 5. See also a gold silk kasaya with a similarly bold bajixiang design pictured enclosing a gilt-bronze Buddha, published ibid., pl. 153, and a deep blue Zhang Zhou velvet jacket of this type with bajixiang medallions, pl. 137.

The ma gua, literally ‘horse jacket’, was a waist-length coat worn by Manchu horsemen and by officials with informal dress even within the palace when transacting everyday business. Normally made of a dark blue fabric, generals and captains of all Manchu, Mongol and Chinese banners were permitted to wear ma gua in the colour appropriate to their regiment when in personal attendance upon the emperor. The yellow ma gua was bestowed upon the highest-ranking ministers and officers of the imperial bodyguard. According to the General Charles Gordon, one of only two European recipients of the yellow jacket for his part in the suppression of the Taiping Rebellion (1850-64), ‘When the Manchu dynasty conquered China, the leader of the invaders feared assassination, so he clothed 40 of his bodyguards in yellow like himself. This precaution by time became unnecessary, and the Emperor then turned the yellow jacket into a decoration for military service. There are accordingly 40 mandarins allowed to wear the yellow jacket; no one else but the Emperor and the 40 can wear yellow’ (see Gary Dickinson and Linda Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 2000, p. 116). A yellow ma gua pictured together with a full set of clothing is illustrated ibid, pl. 98.