L12220

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Lot 658
  • 658

A gem-set gold necklace (lebba) and earrings, Morocco, circa 18th century

Estimate
40,000 - 60,000 GBP
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Description

  • gemstones, gold
the necklace composed of eight almond-shaped ribbed beads between pearls and seven hanging pendants consisting of large emeralds within a diamond-set frame, set gold and enameled flowerhead mounts, lotus shaped beads with square-mounted emeralds above and hanging oval beads and crescent moons below, enamelled in blue, green and red with a scroll motif to reverse on a green woven rope for attachment, including two earrings, also featuring large emeralds set within an enamelled flowerhead mount, between a lotus-shaped bead above and crescent moon bead below

Condition

In general good condition, few knocks and light scratches to mounts and gemstones, some ware to attachment rope, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The most lavishly decorated Moroccan pieces, such as this necklace, were appreciated by European jewellery collectors in the early twentieth century. A similar necklace was in the collection of Madame Elsa Schiaparelli, one of the most famous avant-garde fashion designers of the first half of the last century (see American Vogue, 15 August 1941).

A similar necklace, composed of similar motifs and bead shapes, including the almond-shaped ribbed beads and hanging gemstone-set lotus-shaped, flowerhead and crescent moon beads was illustrated in Mann 2000, no. 62, p.154. For an image illustrating a Moroccan woman wearing a traditional outfit with a similar necklace, see: V. Gonzalez, Emaux d'al-Andalus et du Maghreb, Édisud, Aix-en-Provence, France, 1994, p.185, no.138. A comparable piece published in Hasson 1987 (pp.62-63, no.79) was sold in these rooms 16 October 1997, lot 52.