Lot 438
  • 438

Platinum, Diamond, Emerald, Enamel and Onyx Bracelet, Mauboussin, France, 1925

175,000 - 225,000 USD
bidding is closed


  • mauboussin
  • platinum, diamond, onyx, enamel, emerald, bracelet
The flexible openwork strap of lattice design centering a rose set with a round cabochon emerald, the petals set with old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.65 carats, the petals set with buff-top cabochon emeralds and cabochon onyx segments, the bracelet set throughout with old European-cut, round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 10.55 carats, accented by sugar-loaf cabochon and buff-top cabochon emeralds and onyxes, the ends and clasp applied with black enamel, length 7 inches, workshop mark, French assay mark.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Mauboussin.

For a pendant of similar design see Mauboussin, by Marguerite de Cerval, p. 89.

The Parisian firm of Mauboussin rose to prominence during the Art Deco period although  the company's records indicate that they were making jewelry as early as 1827. In 1923, Georges Mauboussin, a nephew of one of the founders, assumed control of the company, and opened branches in New York, Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro. During the 1920s Mauboussin participated in a number of important international exhibitions, among them the prestigious Exposition des Art Decoratifs in Paris in 1925 where they were awarded a Grand Prix for their innovative designs.

Mauboussin's Art Deco jewels are characterized by an interesting mixture of geometric and curved motifs. The design of the present bracelet, with a central flower of curved outline contrasting with the linear, geometric design of the band, is a perfect example of the firm's ability to successfully merge contrasting elements. Mauboussin's love of color is also evident in their jewels from the mid to late 1920s. The company's advertising brochures from that time have stated: "Current fashion gives us a favorable fortune of color. It loves the polychromatic effects of flowers and fruit, and introduces them wherever it can, even in the jewels which adorn feminine grace."