18 Karat Gold, Plique-à-jour Enamel Pendant-Brooch and Chain, Marcus & Co., Circa 1900

Designed as an articulated Morning Glory motif, the petals and leaves applied with various colors of plique-à-jour enamel, the branches applied with translucent green enamel, signed Marcus & Co., together with a pale green enamel link necklace, length 18½ inches, unsigned.  With original fitted case signed Marcus & Co., with section underneath for the necklace.

Beautifully articulated. As beautiful from the back as it is from the front. The blue-green blossom faces realistically backward as it would on the vine. In very good condition considering age, cracks within several cells of plique-a-jour enameling, but all seem stable. Plaque on back of brooch with signature. Two small loops attach chain for use as a necklace. Enamel is missing from one side of one of the enamel links, but may be placed on the neck so as not to be visible when worn. Other small areas of wear to the enamelled links, but in remarkably good condition overall. Pin back is removed by unscrewing the pincatch counter-clockwise.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

American actress Ada Rehan  who rose to popularity in the late 19th century and early years of the 20th century, originally owned this Art Nouveau-inspired brooch and necklace by Marcus & Co. Glamorous and stylish, Rehan was undoubtedly drawn to the cascading morning glories, which exemplify the tenants of Naturalism, a movement that was sweeping through Europe and America at the time. In fact, in 1897, the 'First Exhibition of the Arts in Crafts' took place in Rehan's hometown of Boston, and it is possible that the actress might have attended and viewed Marcus & Co.'s 40 pieces on display.

Conceived with meticulous attention to detail, the jewel can be viewed from all sides, just as one would view a cluster of flowers in a garden. To create the naturalistic effect, the firm used plique-à-jour enamelling, a technique perfected by the famous French jeweler René Lalique, and rarely used by jewellers in the United States.  The fine metalwork is filled with translucent enamel, resulting in a stained glass effect. Ada Rehan's brooch—which has remained in the same family to which the actress bequeathed it in 1916—is one of the best known examples of these fragile, delicate masterpieces, preserved in its original fitted, signed case.  For an in-depth survey on the history of this firm see "The Legacy of Herman Marcus and Marcus and Company, Part I, The early years, 1850-1892", The Magazine Antiques (August 2007) pp. 68-77 and Part II, "The Marcus and Company years, 1892-1941", The Magazine Antiques (September 2007) pp. 84–93.