Lot 330
  • 330

Platinum and Diamond Feather Brooch, Circa 1940

Estimate
30,000 - 50,000 USD
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Description

  • platinum, diamond, brooch
Designed as a highly articulated curved feather, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 28.00 carats, the stem set with baguette diamonds weighing approximately 4.00 carats, possibly designed by Verdura for Flato.

Condition

Diamonds are approximately G to H color, VS clarity and very lively. Workmanship and articulation are exquisite. In very good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Mrs. Jack Warner

Born in Louisiana, Ann Boyer arrived in Hollywood in the late 1920s, where she met and married Jack L. Warner, co-founder and head of Warner Brothers Studios.   In his memoirs Jack Warner wrote of his wife Ann, "If there is such a miracle as love at first sight anywhere but in a picture script, then this is what happened to me." 

Ann Warner became a legendary Hollywood hostess, entertaining statesmen and European royalty throughout the 1940s and 50s at her beautifully appointed estate in Beverly Hills.  Dressed by Balmain and adorned with jewels from the best houses, Mrs. Warner had a style that dominated Hollywood for years.  After her death in 1990, many of the magnificent jewels of Ann Boyer Warner were sold by Sotheby's in New York.

Flato

This brooch was possibly designed by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato.  Having served as Chanel's textile and then jewelry designer, Verdura came to the United States in 1934 and joined Texas-born Flato's firm in 1936, creating as "Verdura for Flato" three-dimensional jewels inspired by nature such as this feather with curling tendrils articulated at each juncture with the quill.

Ultimately opening a store on Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles in 1938, Flato and his new designer, Verdura, targeted Hollywood. Many of its biggest stars - Katharine Hepburn, Joan Crawford, Merle Oberon, Paulette Goddard, Marlene Dietrich, Loretta Young - wore Flato jewels, including those designed by Verdura.  Ann Warner was Hollywood royalty with a fabulous jewelry collection.  She also was a friend of Verdura so it stands to reason that she would have a jewel designed by him.  Admirers of his designs for Flato also included Cole and Linda Porter whose financial backing allowed Verdura to open a New York showroom under his own name in 1939.