DIAMOND TIARA, 1920s

Designed as a graduated series of open work plaques of palmette, acanthus leaf and floral cluster motifs, pierced and millegrain-set with circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, inner circumference approximately 260mm, frame circumference approximately 350mm, detachable, most probably the tiara was designed to be worn also as a collier de chien but presently no further fittings accompany this lot, French assay marks, two small stones deficient.

Cf: Geoffrey Munn, Tiaras a History of Splendour, London, 2002, page 154-155 and 192-193 where the where the lotus flower and honeysuckle tiaras are illustrated.

Stamped with several French assay marks for Platinum to jewel. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 48.00 - 53.00 carats, estimated colour G-I, few J, estimated clarity VS/SI, few I. Principal diamond approximately 3.00 carats, estimated colour H/I, VS2. Tiara can be detached from frame using a small square key, (does not accompany lot) the sections are articulated and allow the jewel to lay flat or move to form a soft curve. Two additional thread fittings to each end of jewel on reverse; this could allow the piece could be worn as a collier de chien. Traces of gold solder to jewel. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This tiara is highly reminiscent of the lotus flower and honeysuckle tiaras, both created by E.Wolff & Co. for Garrard.  The latter was created early 1914, with interlocking open work acanthus scrolls and highly stylised honeysuckle or palmette motifs.  These jewels are both in the collections of the British Royal family: the honeysuckle tiara is in the collection of their Royal Highnesses The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester.