L11052

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Lot 382
  • 382

GOLD, ENAMEL, GEM-SET AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BOUCHERON, CIRCA 1890

Estimate
15,000 - 20,000 GBP
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Description

  • sapphire, enamel, diamond, chrysoberyl and gold
Designed as a cicada, the articulated wings decorated with plique-à-jour enamel and calibré-cut sapphires, the abdomen and head set with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, further set with buff top sapphires, the eyes of cabochon cat's-eye chrysoberyl, French assay marks and maker's marks for Frédéric Boucheron, detachable brooch fitting, fitted case Boucheron, London, 130 New Bond Street.

Literature

Cf. Gilles Néret, Boucheron Four Generations of a World-Renowned Jeweler, Rizzoli, New York, page 24
Cf: Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, French Jewellery of the Nineteenth Century, London, 2001, page 898                               Cf: The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, London, 1990, page 141, where similar Bumblebee and Cicada brooches by Boucheron are illutrated.

Condition

Stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold, maker's marks for Frédéric Boucheron, one wing slightly looser than the others and would benefit from a professional attention. Enamel with hair line cracks consistent to age, diamonds bright and lively, sapphire medium blue with typical inclusions visible with magnification, cat's eye chrysoberyl displaying typical chatoyancy, could benefit from a careful professional clean, case with few scuffs and scratches. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Frédéric Boucheron (1830-1902) trained in Paris and soon became renowned for his highly imaginative and exquisitely crafted beautiful jewels.  He selected the highest quality materials and had an expert eye for precious stones.  Henri Vever believed that jewels which Boucheron designed, very few of his contemporaries would have dared to attempt to create.  He founded the House of Boucheron in 1858 with the first shop opening in the Palais Royal, he studied nature from life and then experimented with techniques using plique-à-jour enamel several decades before it was made poplular by the Art Nouveau movement.