An enamelled and gem-set torque (hasli), India, Jaipur, 19th century

of rigid ovoid from, with an applied diamond-set rosette to the centre and bridge and pin clasp, the upper side decorated with diamond flowerheads and leaves reserved against a blue enamelled ground, the reverse decorated in red, green, white and blue enamels with cartouches of alternating flowerheads flanked by birds, the edges bordered with pale blue enamelling and pearls

Mughal craftsmen inspired goldsmiths outside the confines of the court to produce jewellery that combined the ornamentation and refinement of the Mughal court with traditional rural forms such as the torque. This type of necklace might have been worn by the wife of a zamindar (landowner) or merchant. For a comparable hasli please see Markevitch 1987, p.44, no.15 and Untracht 1997, p.352, nos.776 & 777.