An Important Diamond Hair Ornament, Cartier, London, Circa 1930

Designed as two posies of leaves, ribbons and detachable flowerheads with en tremblant stamens and collet-set buds, worn at each temple and connected by a crescentic course of stones surmounted by a panache motif of flowers, ribbons and scrolls, set throughout with old mine, old European-cut, rose-cut and baguette diamonds weighing a total of approximately 175.00 carats, signed Cartier, London, one diamond missing.

Sotheby's London, October 6, 1988, Lot 261.

The 4 large diamonds at the top of the ornament weigh approximately 12.75 cts and are approximately I-K color and SI-I clarity. The remainder of the diamonds range in color from G to J color and VS to I clarity. Please note that there are two diamonds missing, not four as stated in the printed catalogue. One baguette missing on a scroll near the top right near the left ear, one small rose-cut diamond missing from the bottom flange near the left ear. In good condition overall. Signed Cartier London on reverse of large diamond quatrefoil at top of head.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Illustrated in David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, p. 298, pl. 506.

Cartier produced a variety of head ornaments in the 1920's and 1930's of original and unique design. In the exhibition catalogue Cartier 1900-1939 p. 21, it is mentioned that "Cartier London seems to have made a specialty of head ornaments."  Designed to suit the latest fashion of close-cropped hairstyles, some of these head ornaments were inspired by traditions from far-off places, as demonstrated in this publicity photograph from the Cartier archives of a Siamese-style head ornament, made by Cartier London in 1931 and shown at the Exposition Coloniale In Paris in 1931; illustrated and captioned in Harper's Bazaar, June 1931, as "A modern diamond tiara".