DIAMOND RIVIÈRE, MID 19TH CENTURY

Designed as a graduated rivière of twenty-eight circular-cut diamonds mounted in pinched collets, length approximately 420mm; accompanied by a pair of earrings similarly set, later screw back fittings.

Mounted in silver and gold. The pair of earrings possibly originally part of the necklace with later screw back fittings. Rivière - Estimated total diamond weight approximately 55.00 - 60.00 carats, estimated colours from approximately J - M+, estimated clarity, some VS, mostly SI. Estimated calculated weight from right clockwise approximately 1.22, 1.10, 1.20, 1.30, 1.30, 1.54, 1.46, 1.97, 2.04, 2.06, 2.52, 2.26, 3.20, 3.56, 4.83, 3.06, 2.42, 2.29, 2.37, 2.03, 1.95, 2.08, 1.82, 1.44, 1.46, 1.27, 1.03, 1.17 carats respectively. Secure clasp, safety catch. Earrings: Estimated to weigh approximately 3.82 carats, estimated colour L/M, estimated clarity SI1 and 4.86 carats, estimated colour M, estimated clarity SI2. Scratches and light indentations to mounts consistent with age and wear. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Rivière (stream) is a term used to describe a necklace designed as a succession of gemstones individually set in simple collet or claw mounts without any other ornamentation, this term is often used as a synonym to describe a diamond set neck ornament as in this example.  It is likely that the simple structure of the rivière was used for necklaces prior to the 18th century, but it was only in the second half of that century that the rivière came to the forefront of jewellery design.  These were formed of a line of gemstones of graduated size and mounted in closed collets. By the turn of the century most rivières were set with gemstones mounted in open collets which remained the typical way of mounting until the end of the 19th century. A distinguishing feature of late 19th century rivières is the replacement of collets by claw settings.