MOONSTONE AND SAPPHIRE NECKLACE, LOUIS COMFORT TIFFANY FOR TIFFANY & CO, CIRCA 1915

The open work pendant set with a cabochon moonstone within a fine twisted rope work frame, further set with circular-cut sapphires, to a fine two row fetter link chain, set at intervals with trefoils of similarly cut sapphires, length approximately 510mm, signed Tiffany & Co.

Cf: John Loring, Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co, pages 72-75 where examples of Tiffany's moonstone jewelry are illustrated.

Probably mounted in platinum. Signed Tiffany & Co. to reverse of clasp. Moonstone, displaying typical blue adularescence, light scratches to surface. Sapphires medium slightly violetish blue, different saturation among stones, well matched, light scratches and abrasions to facet junctions to some stones. Pendent attached to chain. Slightly loose but secure clasp. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933), first exhibited his jewellery at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, St Louis in Missouri, 1904.  He only began designing jewellery after the death of his father Charles Tiffany in 1902.  His early collections took inspiration from nature and each jewel was a work of art in themselves, the present necklace is more stylised and symmetrical with simpler lines.  Using platinum for the setting allows for a very delicate piece.  The subtle use of combining moonstones and sapphires was particularly favoured by Tiffany and there are several examples of jewels created in a similar manner.  The sapphires are particularly striking with a distinctive bright cornflower blue, these are typical of examples those of Montana sapphires.  Tiffany, under the guidance of Dr. George F. Kunz, Tiffany & Co.'s gemmologist, encouraged the use of American gemstones in his jewels, including tourmalines from Maine, freshwater pearls from Mississippi and in this case sapphires mined from Yogo Gulch, Montana.  Intensive mining began in the 1890s and continued until 1923 when a flood and a possible earthquake destroyed the mine.  His jewels are signed, Louis C.Tiffany or Louis C.Tiffany Artist, after 1907, when the studio moved address the jewels were stamped Tiffany & Co.