Diamond, enamel and emerald 'Poissons' brooch, Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co.

Designed as two pavé-set diamond fish, each enhanced by red enamel and gold fins, the eyes set with 2 cabochon emeralds, suspended from a bow set with baguette and rectangular-cut diamonds, the total diamond weight approximately 14.00 carats, mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum, signed Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co.

Good condition. Small enamel loss to one fin on the belly of the fish at left, another small area of loss to the tip of the tail fin; both reveal a small amount of the gold mounting. The diamonds are approximately G-H color, VVS-VS color. The emeralds are medium bluish green and lightly included. Please note that while this design was created in 1965, we cannot date this particular example with any certainty.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

French-born Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987) was the first of a series of artist-jewellers hired by Tiffany & Co. (in 1956) to have his own studio within the company. He had been personally selected for his reputation as a great talent, having worked under Schiaparelli in Paris in the 20's and 30's, and later having enjoyed great success on his own.  The distinctive jewels and precious objects he created for Tiffany's high profile clientele demonstrated his unique point-of-view and superb sense of style. Creatures of the sea were a great source of inspiration for Schlumberger and a recurrent theme in his designs.  His first fine jewel, created in 1939, was actually an articulated cigarette lighter in the form of a fish. The brooch offered here is another manifestation of his pre-occupation with sea life and can be readily identified as one of his creations without the need to look for a signature.  

 

Similar brooches illustrated in:

Alexandra Bonfante-Warren, The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, p. 109, cat no. 309.

Franco Maria Ricci, Bijoux de Jean Schlumberger, pp. 124-125.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs, exhibition catalogue Un Diamant Dans La Ville, Jean Schlumberger 1907-1987: Bijoux-Objects, p. 109.