Gold, cabochon emerald and ruby ring, Chanel, Circa 1935

Cabochon emeralds measuring approximately 12.4 by 9.8 mm. and 13.0 by 9.4 mm., size 7, signed Chanel.

Set with 2 cabochon emeralds and 28 round rubies. The emeralds are a light, watery green and are heavily included, wtih some surface-reaching inclusions as well as scratches and slight chipping to the surface. The rubies weigh approximately 5.50 cts, they are a medium slightly pinkish red color and are moderately included, with abrasions and chips to many of the stones. Some discoloration to the gold in spots, but the ring is in good condition overall. Signed Chanel on outside of shank close to one shoulder.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Similar ring illustrated in Sylvie Raulet, Art Deco Jewelry, p. 259.

"The point of jewelry isn't to make a woman look rich but to adorn her" observed Mademoiselle Coco Chanel explaining that jewelry shouldn't provoke envy but intrigue.  During the 1920's, Chanel's faux jewels were "devoid of arrogance in an epoch of too easy luxe."  In the 1930's, when times were hard, she promoted precious gems because "they had the greatest value in the smallest volume and answered a hunger for authenticity and value."

Designing both costume and fine jewels, Chanel intended her pieces to be worn everyday and for every occasion.  An elegant woman was to wear her jewelry not only to the opera but also to the beach.  She loved to mix costume jewelry with precious jewels, wearing fake stones and diamonds with tweeds and semiprecious stones with a little black dress.  Her bold theatrical jewels were in contrast to the simplicity of line in her clothing. 

Drawing inspiration from the jewelry given to her by her many suitors, Chanel became inspired by the rich Indian emeralds, rubies and sapphires that were given to her by the Duke of Westminster. This wonderful cabochon emerald and ruby ring, utilizing her signature color combination of red and green, draws from the rich colors of such jewels she received.  Often turning to the creativity of other artists, Chanel worked closely with Fulco di Verdura until 1934 whose style was distinguished by his exuberance for color and bold designs.  The vibrant use of color and unique design of this ring echoes the love of unrestrained jewelry they both shared.