Superb Sapphire, emerald and diamond clip, 'Panthère', Cartier, 1950

Designed as a panther with articulated head, front and back legs and tail, pavé-set with single-cut diamonds, the spots of cabochon sapphires, accented with pear-shaped emerald eyes, the body suspended from a baguette diamond band, mounted in platinum,

Please note that several diamonds and a small sapphire are deficient and will be replaced by Sotheby's after the auction. Numbered 010457. The sapphires of a vibrant blue hue with good saturation of colour, well matched. Total diamond weight approximately 7.00-8.00 carats, mixed in quality, lively stones. Safety catch to the double pin. With flexible tail, legs and head, an eye catching piece of jewellery in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The "great cats" are the most famous of the celebrated menagerie of jewels created by Jeanne Toussaint. In 1934, she was made responsible for the Haute Joaillerie at Cartier working closely with fellow designer Peter Lemarchand and in 1948 she created the  first three-dimensional 'panthère' brooch for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.  A powerful interpretation of the animal,  the gold feline was decorated with black enamel spots crouched on a large cabochon emerald. Jeanne Toussaint went on to create more fabulous "cats" for the Duchess as well as other fashion icons such as Barbara Hutton and Daisy Fellowes. 

The present panther brooch is mentioned in the book Famous Jewelry Collectors, by Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes, p. 163. The panther was commissioned by Daisy Fellowes from Cartier in 1950 to be modelled after the pendant part of the Order of the Golden Fleece.  Founded by Phillip III the Good, Duke of Burgundy in 1430, the order set out to defend the Roman Catholic religion and the codes of chivalry.  In the hands of Jeanne Toussaint , the fleece was transformed from a gold ram's skin  into an elegant  hanging panther of diamonds and cabochon sapphires suspended from a diamond band.