Lot 418
  • 418

Pair of cabochon emerald and diamond pendant-earclips, last quarter 19th century

Estimate
800,000 - 1,200,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

The surmounts set with 2 round pyramidal cabochon emeralds within borders of cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting open pear-shaped pendants set with round and small single-cut diamonds, suspending 2 emerald drop swing centers, the total diamond weight approximately 17.50 carats, mounted in platinum, platinum mountings of later date.  

Provenance

The Thurn und Taxis Collection, Sotheby's Geneva, November 17, 1992, lot 294.

Condition

See AGL report stating the emeralds are of Colombian origin, moderate organic (oil type) enhancement. The emeralds at the top measure approximately 12.5 by 12.5 by 7.7 mm. and 12.8 by 12.7 by 8.0 mm. The drops approximately 19.1 by 12.4 and 18.5 by 12.1. They are a rich shade of medium deep bluish green color and are moderately included, some of those inclusions reach the surface. There are 94 round, old Euroepan-cut and single-cut diamonds approximately G-H color and VS-SI clarity. In good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS39751 stating that the emeralds are of Classic Colombian origin; clarity enhancement: moderate organic (oil type) for the drops, and faint to moderate organic (oil type) for the round cabochons. 

These earrings were owned by the Grand Duchess Vladimir, born Princess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, who married Tsar Alexander II's son, the Grand Duke Vladimir, in 1874 at age 20. She adopted the Russian name of Maria Pavlovna and eventually became the leading hostess in St. Petersburg, with an alternate court at the Vladimir Palace on the Neva River.  

The Grand Duchess Vladimir was a lavish patron of Cartier, among other jewelers. Her collection of jewels was legendary and nearly equalled that of the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna. Consuelo Vanderbilt, Duchess of Marlborough, visited St. Petersburg in 1902 and wrote in her memoirs: "After dinner the Grand Duchess showed me her jewels set out in glass cases in her dressing room. There were endless parures of diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls, to say nothing of semi-precious stones such as turquoises, tourmalines, cat's eyes and aquamarines. It was on the proceeds from these that she lived after her flight abroad during the Revolution, having first handed them over to an English friend, Albert Stopford, who was able to smuggle them out of the country."  A photograph of the Grand Duchess in traditional Russian costume, her headdress incorporating both her Cartier briolette diamond tiara and her Russian emerald necklace, appears in Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, Hans Nadelhoffer, p. 70, pl. 59.

The present emerald and diamond earrings were sold by the Grand Duchess's direct descendant at Sotheby's in Geneva in November of 1987, lot 688. They were acquired by Prince Johannes von Thurn und Taxis as a present for Princess Gloria.