Rare diamond cuff bangle, 'Torque', René Boivin, 1937

Set at the centre with a line of cushion- and pear-shaped, circular- and single-cut diamonds in millegrain collet settings,

Cf: Françoise Caille, René Boivin Joaillier, Paris 1994, page 184 for an illustration of this bracelet; pages 44 and 183 for two bracelets of similar design with annular terminals.

Metal tested as silver and platinum and not gold as stated in the printed catalogue. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 5.00 carats, generally H-J colour, SI clarity. Nice patina. Minor scratches to metal consistent with wear and age. Well preserved, in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Jewels from the House of Boivin have always appealed to the connoisseur. Known for creations that were in the vanguard of fashion, their designs have stood the test of time and remained strikingly modern.

Rene Boivin, who founded the firm under his name in the 1890s, was married to the sister of the celebrated couturier Paul Poiret. Herself a designer, Jeanne Boivin continued the firm after her husband's untimely death in 1917. An isolated woman in a field dominated by men, she gathered around her a first-rate team of female designers beginning with Suzanne Belperron, who remained with the firm until 1933. After Belperron's departure, daughters Germaine Boivin and Juliette Moutard became responsible for some of the firm's most innovative designs of the late 1930s and 40s which were lauded at many international exhibitions. The Duchess of Windsor, Lauren Bacall, King Farouk and Daisy Fellowes were among Boivin's regular clients at their premises at 6 avenue de l'Opera. The firm's pieces were distinctive for their varying textures and combination of materials; Jeanne Boivin was perhaps the first jeweller to introduce wood in her creations.

The present cuff is a splendid example of a Boivin masterpiece from the 1930s. Bold and daring in design, the sculpted metal a surprising backdrop for the diamonds, it remains totally in style today. One can see Cubist inspiration in this piece. Created in the early 20th Century by Georges Braque and Picasso, the Avant-Garde movement Cubism would have also been influential in Jeanne's designs.  Another source of inspiration might have been The Paris Colonial Exhibition or 'Exposition Coloniale Internationale' held in Paris, in1931. It attempted to display the diverse cultures and immense resources of France's colonial possessions.