AN IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND DEVANT DE CORSAGE, EARLY 20TH CENTURY

Designed as an open work tied ribbon bow, millegrain-set with circular- and single-cut diamonds accented with mixed-cut rubies, the articulated bow suspending a ruby and diamond fringe of bell flower design, one diamond deficient, detachable brooch pin to reverse.

Cf: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Jewels Extraodinary. Thames and Hudson 1984, plates 29 and 33 for examples of jewels by Cartier in the form of Ribbon bows, Circa 1906 and 1905.

In overall good condition, well articulated and hinged to reverse, detachable brooch pin to reverse, with two additional screw thread aperture to reverse, mounted in platinum, tassel also detachable. Rubies well matched with good clarity, deep purplish pinkish red hue, approximately 25.00 to 30.00 carats in total, characteristics are typical of Siam stones. A selection of stones tested were found not to have any evidence of heat treatment. The diamonds of mixed colours and clarities, bright, lively stones, one small diamond deficient. Well articulated. In very good condition. The Siam province of Chantabun has long been known as being rich in rubies. The 19th Century explorer Henri Mouhot writing in 1868 commented that "precious stones of good quality are found in the mountains of Chantabun; there is even at the East of the town a hill called the mountain of the Precious stones; it seems, according to Mgr Pallegoix (Archbishop of the French mission at Bangkok) that there was a time when they were very plentiful since he picked up a handful in half an hour, that is to say as much as the inhabitants of the province now find in a year. Another proof of their present extreme rarity is that it is no longer possible to buy any, even at very high prices" Up until the middle of the 19th century there had been no systematic ruby mining in the region and it was only towards the later part of the 19th century that the Burmese came into the country and commenced their mining operations, previously gems could be found in abundance on the surface of the ground, in water courses and shallow streams. Siam rubies are noted for their distinctive purple colour and are darker than Burmese stones.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."