GOLD MICROMOSAIC 'BULLA' PENDANT, CASTELLANI, CIRCA 1860

In the Roman revival style, designed as a hinged pendant with bead, burr, granulation and filigree decoration, to a central annular monogram on each side inlaid  with white and red tesserae, 'EY' meaning good health and 'AEI' al-ways, a possession for all time, signed to the inside with a monogram of interlaced C's, to the original woven gold necklace.

Cf: Exhibition Catalogue: Susan Weber Soros and Stefanie Walker, Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry,The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture,Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2004, page 347 for a similar example of a bulla pendant by Alessandro Castellani.

Cf: Sotheby's Catalogue, Castellani & Giuliano, The Judith Siegel Collection, New York, 6th December 2006

Cf: Sotheby's Catalogue, Important Jewellery, New York, 9th December 1992, Lot 18 for a similar example of a bulla pendant by Castellani.

Cf: Sotheby's Catalogue, Antique and Contemporary Jewels, London, 13th June 2007, Lot 300, for a similar example of a bulla micromosaic pendant of similar period, unsigned.

Cf: Amanda Triossi and Daniela Mascetti, 'The Necklace, From Antiquity To The Present', Thames and Hudson, 1997, pages 34-35 for examples of bulla.

Very minor losses to tesserae, traces of dirt to surface and in between, bulla and woven mesh necklace with tarnish and dirt, whole piece could benefit from a very careful professional clean. Bulla opens and closes well. Weighing approximately 77.2 grams. S-shaped clasp similar to those used by Castellani, a later replacement. Accompanied by two later unassociated fittings. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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In Ancient Rome a bulla, worn like a locket, was given to children by their families on the occasion of their birth, it was worn as an amulet to protect against evil spirits.  Bulla could be made of many different materials which was dependent upon the wealth of the owner.   Often they were made of leather, poor families might have one of cotton but the wealthier families would have bullae of gold or silver.

A girl would wear her bulla until the eve of her marriage, when it was removed and kept with other childhood possessions, a boy however would continue to wear his bulla until he became a Roman citizen and then would only be worn on special occasions as a protective talisman.