Lot 271
  • 271

Platinum, gold and diamond pendant-watch, Cartier, circa 1910

Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 USD
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Description

The three-sided egg-form case of openwork laurel-wreath design decorated on two sides with oval medallions, the third with monogram CHB, set throughout with old European-cut and rose-cut diamonds in platinum, separated by rose-cut diamond ribs, the interior case of guilloché-patterned gold, two sides with circular glazed compartments for photos, the third featuring a circular matte cream dial with Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, dial signed Cartier, movement signed Montre Teriam, Swiss.

Literature

Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Jewelers Extraordinary, p. 255, nos. 136 and 137. 

Condition

Movement Montre Teriam, Swiss, 17 jewels, under dial on movement initials "MB". Movement is a caliber F-22, size 6¼L, made by Swiss factory Felsa SA from Grenchen, Switzerland. This is the smallest round movement used by many brands. Presently in good running condition. Signed Cartier on the dial. The diamonds are of decorative quality and there are 3 tiny rose-cut diamond missing, not visible to the naked eye. Some slight discoloration of the metals, but in good condition overall. The piece opens by rotating the top and pushing down to open the three individual sides. See Important Notice Regarding Condition of Watches on page 335 of the catalogue.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

The Russian influence is undeniable in this charming egg form watch by Cartier. At the turn of the last century, while Russia looked to 18th Century France for inspiration, Parisian jewelers, including Cartier, found it hard to ignore the influence that Fabergé exerted in Paris. Eyes were opened at the World's Fair in 1900 when Fabergé unveiled to the public the 15 jeweled imperial Easter eggs he had created as yearly presents from Alexander III and Nicholas II to their wives. 

Cartier held their first exhibition of jewels in St. Petersburg in 1907. The following year, they held exhibitions at rented premises twice yearly for the Christmas and Easter seasons. Sending out over 500 letters of introduction, those invited were treated to delicate platinum jewels in Parisian taste as well as objects in Russian taste. The last exhibition took place in the spring of 1914. See Judy Rudoe, Cartier: 1900-1939, p. 102.