18 Karat Gold, Enamel and Diamond Evening Bag, French, circa 1925

The frame decorated in Japanese taste with a repeating pattern of flowers in red and green enamel imitating coral and jade, further accented with bands of rose-cut diamonds, within black enamel borders, the sides decorated with bands of gold-flecked black enamel imitating nashiji lacquer, the thumbpiece composed of a carved ivory figure of a Japanese woman wearing a gold kimono seated behind a parapet and holding a rose-cut diamond fan, completed by a fabric pouch made from a Chinese textile with red silk lining, indistinct maker's mark, numbered 3827, French assay marks. 

The maker's mark, which is partly illegible on the rings attaching the cord to the frame, is possibly J and D within a lozenge. If so, it would likely represent the mark of Julien Duval, a Parisian jeweler whose mark was JD bisected by mistletoe, who was known for his work as a medallist and with sculpted gold. The enameling in the frame is intact and in good condition. Diamonds are of decorative quality. Some discoloration to the gold in the texturing of the female figure's cloak. The heavily embroidered bag is frayed in many places and is worn through at the edges where it attaches to the frame, fair to good condition overall for the fabric. The corded handle is discolored, but in good condition. A very intricately executed piece. With several french assay marks and numbered 3827 on the inside of the frame near a hinge.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Perhaps at no other time did the relationship between fine jewelry and high fashion yield such exquisite results as in the 1920s when the great Parisian jewelers—Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Lacloche, to name but a few—transformed the evening bag into the ultimate accessory.  Frequently inspired by the materials and motifs of the Near and Far East, the designer endeavored to provide the touche de grâce to stylish evening ensembles.  The bags were often composed of silk brocade threaded with gold and mounted in gem-set frames, the latter providing fertile ground for the fusion of Eastern exoticism with Art Deco restraint and geometricality.  The Japanese decorative motifs found in the present example lend themselves seamlessly to the aesthetic framework provided.  The use of red, green and gold-flecked black enamel in imitation of coral, jade, and nashiji lacquer—all traditional Asian materials—further underscores the translation of the Oriental to the Occidental.  Although the maker's marks are only partially legible, the sophisticated design and masterful workmanship of the present lot suggest it was created by one of the great jewelers of the period.

For evening bags of similar design, see Understanding Jewelry, David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, p. 355, pl. 658, and Masterpieces of French Jewelry, Judith Price, p. 79.