DIAMOND WING AIGRETTE TIARA, 1900s

Designed as a pair of opposing scrolls surmounted by two out swept wings terminating in an aigrette of radiating knife-edge bars set throughout with circular-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 210mm, original fitted case, accompanied by two brooch pin fittings, three tiara frame attachments, a diamond-set suspension bail and a hair pin/aigrette fitting, tiara/aigrette all detachable and may be worn in five combinations, wings detachable for wear as individual brooches. 

Cf; Timeless Tiaras, Chaumet from 1804 to the Present, Diana Scarisbrick, Assouline 2002, pages 106-107 for examples of wing Valkyrie tiaras by Chaumet inspired by Wagner's opera, and pages 170 to 173 for examples of diamond aigrettes.

Estimated total diamond weight approximately 18.0 - 22.0 carats, of mixed colours and clarities. The two central principal diamonds measuring approximately 6.35mm (average diameter) x 3.8mm and 6.85mm (average diameter) x 4.4mm, weighing approximately 1.08 carats and 1.45 carats respectively, estimated colour H/I, estimated clarity VS2 and SI1 respectively. Please refer to crib sheet for further details on diamond weights. Some minor discolouration to the metal on the frame not visible when worn. The aigrette is a little twisted on the left hand side when looking in comparison to the outspread wings. All adjustable sections and fittings in good working order. A very versatile piece. In excellent overall condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

During the early years of the twentieth century women's fashion changed dramatically, under the influence of couturiers like Paul Poiret, loose fitting garments inspired by Diaghilev's Ballets Russes became highly fashionable. Tall, rigid and structured, the tiaras of the preceding centuries where not compatible with the new silhouettes. Bandeaus and aigrettes embellished with real osprey and ostrich feathers became favoured, "feathers and aigrettes give a delightful air of fantasy" as the Gazette du Bon Ton commented in 1912. Furthermore, the fashion for wings and wing devices transpired into the musical world, with the winged helmets worn by the Valkyries in Richard Wagner's opera "Die Walkure" (first performed in 1870), giving an ethereal and mythical symbolism to the jewelled aigrettes and tiaras of the Belle Epoque.