Lot 448
  • 448

Highly important pair of emerald and diamond bracelets, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1926 & 1928

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Description

  • Van Cleef & Arpels
  • Highly important pair of emerald and diamond bracelets
  • signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris and numbered, French assay marks, convertable to a necklace.
  • di

  • length approximately 160mm,
  • 1920
Each designed as an articulated flexible cuff of open work geometric design, centring on six step-cut diamonds within a surround of circular-, step-cut and baguette stones, suspending a fringe of emerald drops, mounted in platinum,

Literature

Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes “Famous Jewelry Collectors” Thames & Hudson, London 1999. pages 154 – 165.

Sylvie Raulet, “Van Cleef & Arpels”, Editions du regard, Paris, 1986

« Van Cleef & Arpels », exhibition catalogue, Palais Galliéra, Paris, 1992, Editions Paris Musées

Catalogue Note

Daisy Fellowes is acknowledged as having been one of the 20th century’s most stylish and glamorous women, words which could equally well describe her jewellery collection.  Born in Paris in 1890 of American and French extraction, from the 1920’s onwards Daisy was one of the uncrowned queens of the social scene and a leader of fashion.  Noted as a great hostess, a sportswoman and an author, she was equally renowned for her passion for fine jewels.  Indeed, her collection was famous enough for press reporters and fashion magazines to keep a watchful eye to see with which new jewel she would next stun the world.

 

Daisy patronized the leading jewellers of her time such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boivin and Jean Schlumberger as well as the most creative designers in the world of fashion. A highly memorable acquisition from Cartier was the 17.47 carats rose-pink diamond known as the “Tete de Belier”, or Ram’s Head.  To commemorate this new addition to Daisy’s collection Elsa Schiaparelli created, especially for her, the “shocking pink” which would compliment the colour of this stone.  In Sotheby’s Geneva in May 1991 a world record price was achieved for any Cartier jewel sold at auction; this was the sensational “Collier Hindou” which was originally created for Daisy in 1936. From Van Cleef & Arpels her acquisitions were equally innovative and stunning and some of the most important were also of Indian inspiration. This included an emerald bead and diamond fringed bracelet and a ruby and diamond fringed bracelet, both dating from the 1920’s and both sold in Sotheby’s Geneva in 1980.  The magnificent pair of emerald and diamond fringed bracelets to be sold in this sale are of very similar design: these she would wear with great aplomb around each wrist or she could attach them together to form a ravishing necklace. 

 

The emerald and diamond ring in this collection is probably by Boivin, for whom she was one of their most important and enthusiastic clients.  An especially dramatic example of the highly creative jewels designed by Boivin came from Daisy’s collection and was sold in Sotheby’s Geneva in 1991: the large brooch was in the form of a wing of a pigeon set with sapphires which Daisy herself had acquired in Ceylon during one of her fabled cruises aboard the “Sister Anne”. Very few of Bovin’s creations were signed at this time as Mme Boivin felt that a beautiful jewel did not require a signature, and that its addition would be “pure affectation”. This ring undoubtedly shows all the hallmarks of Boivin’s extraordinary style.  Again the other jewel in this present collection, the emerald and diamond fringed necklace, is unsigned but even without a signature this piece stands out as remarkable in its design and workmanship.