Elegant Jewels from the Collection of Maria Monet Markowitz
Lots 114-153

It began with a lapel watch almost twenty-five years ago, an understated example from the 1920s with diamond-set stripes and onyx crescents. The fact that it was made by Cartier was secondary to the decision-making process; it was the exquisite delicacy that proved so captivating. Since that first acquisition, Maria Monet Markowitz’s interest in period timepieces has grown into an appreciation for precious objects that shaped a thoughtfully curated collection of nineteenth to mid-twentieth century jewels.


Lot 149
Property from the Collection of Maria Monet Markowitz
18 Karat Gold, Platinum and Diamond 'Ludo-Hexagone' Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, France
Estimate: 25,000-35,000 USD


For Maria, these jewels serve as windows in time, vestiges of another culture and a different way of life. In an age when the same sleek device is used to check the time, make a phone call and track the weather, an intricately jeweled pendant-watch is an appealing reminder of when form outshined function. The following pages offer many examples of this ethos, such as the guilloché enamel pendant-watches in gorgeous shades of blue, violet and purple. With their diamond-set rosettes and garlands, they exemplify the refined elegance of the Edwardian era, a time when women floated by in white dresses, carrying parasols in kid-gloved hands. Masterful hardstone examples are also represented, including an important work by Vacheron Constantin graced with a moon- stone cameo depicting a dancing maiden. The most charming timepiece in the collection, however, may be the lapel watch by American jeweler Udall & Ballou. Designed as a diamond-set birdhouse, it hangs from a branch sprouting carved emerald leaves and ruby berries. To read the time, one pulls on the base to reveal an artfully concealed dial. As with all the watches in the Collection, the beauty of the design rivals the function.

Lot 143
Property from the Collection of Maria Monet Markowitz
Platinum, Colored Stone and Diamond Lapel Watch, Udall & Ballou
Estimate: 20,000-30,000 USD


The Markowitz Collection is impressively comprehensive from an art historical and chronological perspective. The nineteenth century is represented by a glorious diamond-set laurel leaf necklace, and a ruby flowerhead bracelet that would seem a source of inspiration to Mario Buccellati almost a century later. Moving toward the twentieth century and the introduction of platinum, an extensive selection of delicate pearl and diamond creations transition to the controlled geometry of the 1920s. Classically Art Deco pieces such as the sapphire and diamond bracelet by Tiffany & Co. are followed by the sculptural designs of the 1930s, with cabochon ruby and diamond dress clips echoing the machine-age aesthetic found in a bracelet by Drayson. The timeline concludes with several works from the Retro period, a Van Cleef & Arpels ‘ludo-hexagone’ bracelet with diamond-set scrolls completed by Cartier rose brooches in coral and ivory.


Lot 149
Property from the Collection of Maria Monet Markowitz
Gold, Silver and Diamond Necklace
Estimate: 75,000-100,000 USD


After years of collecting, Maria has turned her attention to education, investing in the acclaimed Jewelry Arts Institute in New York. Founded in the 1970s by artist Robert Kulicke, the school was established to teach the ancient technique of granulation. The Institute continues to impart this knowledge to its students along with more modern approaches to jewelry-making. Maria Monet Markowitz’s mission is to ensure that such techniques do not become a lost art, enabling the jewelers of today to create more windows in time for tomorrow.

Tags:New York, Juwelen